How to Teach Your Dog to Go into the Crate Willingly

  • By Kathy McRoberts
  • 02 Mar, 2010

Original article by Angie Pullano, Fusion Dog Training

This game requires patience on the human end at the beginning but the results are worth it! Your dog will think she can make you click and give her a treat for going into the crate and that it’s all her idea! Note that the game does NOT include you giving any commands. Indeed, if your dog has a history of trying to avoiding going into the crate, you saying anything can ruin the game! For a dog with no negative associations of going into the crate the command can start to be added as soon as the 2nd or 3rd session. However, if your dog has shown avoidance previously I recommend that you play the game for at least a week before adding the command. Since you do not walk with the dog to the crate, nor gesture towards it, nor throw cookies into it as a bribe, you will be able to send your dog to her crate from across the room without having to stand up once she learns the word.

It is best to use a clicker for this game, unless your dog is afraid of the sound of the click. If this is the case, substitute the word “Yes” said unemotionally. Every click is followed by a food reward being given to the dog (or at least offered). Being random about how many treats/kibbles are given for each click makes it more interesting for dogs, try to vary how many you give from a single treat to a handful. C/T is shorthand for click & treat. It is ok to praise after the click as well, as long as it doesn’t distract your dog from thinking about how to figure out the game. If your dog is free-fed she may not value kibble enough to put this much mental effort into figuring out how to get it and you will need to use all treats for the game.

Go to your crate game:   Set up with about 10 treats mixed in with her meal ration of kibble and your clicker next to her crate. Ignore her and look at the crate pan. If she is suspicious, sit on the floor next to the side of the crate. Click for her approaching you and toss her the treats. Work up to looking at the crate, her head in the crate (try to click as she’s still moving forward), then a paw in the crate, then all 4 paws in the crate before clicking. Once she has a paw in, start tossing the treats into the crate with her. Pause and wait to see if she walks out. If she stands at the doorway and waits, click and toss another treat into the crate. Repeat about 5-10 times or until she walks out of the crate on her own, then click and toss the treat outside the crate and say “get it” to set up for the next rep of going into the crate.

As part of this process change your location. Scoot closer to the entrance instead of sitting on the side. Sit in a chair nearby. Stand next to the side, next to the entrance, towards the pathway where you normally approach the crate. Add distance so you’re standing in the hallway (or as far away as you can get and still attempt to toss treats into the crate). If she gets stuck, she may try barking at you, say “no” gravely and if needed, turn your back or walk out of the room. Rudeness makes the game end that she wants to play. Start again by taking a step closer to the crate and re-focusing on it again.

Add challenges when things are going smoothly. Shut the crate door partway so she has to figure out how to get in to get the click. When she’s in the crate, close the door, C/T while she’s in the crate and then open the door. See if she decides to walk right out. If she doesn’t C/T some more and toss several more treats into the crate before you do a “get it.” While she is chasing after a long “get it” toss, throw a handful into the crate and close the door all the way w/o locking it. Let her get frustrated and when she finally gives up and looks to you for help, open the door. Wait to see if she comes out after all the treats are gone – if she doesn’t and waits instead at the doorway, C/T (tossing into the crate). When your dog has completed these challenges, start to add the word you want to use (like “crate” or “room”) while your dog is already heading towards the crate. This is called “overlaying” of a command but it is basically just telling the dog what it is called that she is doing. Do not repeat the command, and expect that it may cause your dog to pause and forget what she was doing. Just keep looking into the crate and she will resume the game. When saying the command no longer distracts her, start to say it right after she’s swallowed the last treat thrown outside of the crate, so it is actually being said before she starts heading towards it. With a couple more sessions she will now run to the crate on command!

Fusion Dog Training   513-373-0394

Cincinnati Dog Knowledge Center

By Pets in Need 08 Jan, 2018

Education is the first step  in pet poison prevention

Pet owners should take the time to educate themselves on the various, sometimes unexpected, pet poisons in their environments. The  Pet Poison Helpline  provides an extensive list of poisonous items for pet owners to be aware of, but here are a few of the most common items seen by veterinarians:

By Pets in Need 11 Dec, 2017

Outdoor Animals:

Many people believe certain dog breed, such as huskies and malamutes, are capable of living outside all of the time because of their thick coats. However, no dog breed should be consistently left unprotected outside. According to the City of Cincinnati, when the temperature is below 20 degrees Fahrenheit or above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, a pet owner should not leave their dog outside for longer than sixty minutes without adequate shelter. For outside dogs, owners should provide a warm, dry, draft free shelter with fresh, unfrozen water. Heated water bowls are a great option to ensure consistent access to unfrozen water. Owners should also feed their outdoor dogs more during the winter because their bodies use more energy trying to keep warm. In 2016, the City of Cincinnati passed an ordinance with further restrictions and shelter guidelines for dog tethering and weather conditions, which can be found by  clicking here

A common winter hazard that vets encounter consistently with cats is engine belt injuries. Cats will climb into cars to keep warm, and without knowing they’re there, people will start their cars and harm the cats. Before starting your car in the winter, it’s advised to give the car hood a few raps to make sure there are no cats cozied up inside.

By Pets in Need 27 Nov, 2017

Pets start an estimated 1,000 fires per year. While this isn’t a huge number, it’s easily preventable. Pet owners should identify the risks in their home and make sure they’re contained from pets. Risks to consider include, open flames such as candles, space heaters, stovetops, fireplaces, and frayed wires chewed by puppies.

Even if all fire hazards are contained from pets, there’s still always a chance of a house fire. According to the   National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) , there’s a home fire reported every 86 seconds in the United States. So while the hope is that you and your pets never have to face a fire, it’s important to have a plan.

In case of a fire, pet owners should hang window clings that let firefighters know there’s a pet in the home. The   ASPCA offers a free Pet Fire Safety Pack   that includes a window decal. When leaving home, pet owners should know where their pets are and keep them close to exits if possible. Pet owners should also consider investing in monitored smoke detectors that alert homeowners of a fire when they’re not home and automatically dispatch firefighters.

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First, let’s learn a bit of information about pet diabetes. Just like in humans, there are 2 types or diabetes in pets, which veterinarians typically refer to as insulin dependent and non-insulin dependent. One is caused when the body doesn’t make enough insulin, which is a hormone created by the pancreas that allows glucose (or sugars) to move from the blood stream into cells to create energy. With non-insulin dependent diabetes, the body is making enough insulin, but it can’t utilize the insulin efficiently. This can be caused by high body fat content, chronic cortisone administration, and/or certain hormones such as progesterone (produced during a pet’s heat period).
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Getting your dog microchipped is an easy and relatively inexpensive procedure that drastically increases the odds that your pet will find its way home if it’s ever lost. A microchip is a tiny chip that’s about the size of a grain of rice and contains a unique identification number. It’s injected into a pet’s skin between the shoulder blades on their back. When scanned with an electric scanner, the chip will show the unique identification number and manufacturer of the microchip. This unique identification number will be linked to the pet owner’s contact information in the microchip manufacturer’s database.

If a stranger ever finds your dog, a shelter or veterinarian can scan your pet for a microchip. Once they have the identification number and manufacturer from the chip reading, they will call the manufacturer in search of the pet owner’s contact information.  Therefore, if a dog owner moves or changes their contact information, it’s extremely important for them to update the contact information associated with their pet’s microchip identification number.

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